It would be fair to describe Ad Maiora as a little slice of Italy. But the slices of bread their sandwiches are served on are anything but little.
Walking into their new deli in the Northern Quarter on a Wednesday lunchtime, it’s hard not to feel like you're in the streets of Tuscany popping into a neighbourhood café for a light bite to eat. The fresh smell of bread immediately greets you, Italian music is playing in the background, and there’s chatter going on amongst customers as if they've not got a care in the world.
Of course, glancing out the windows of the deli, I’m immediately transported back to the sights and sounds of Tib Street. But there’s a glistening sense of fantasy - dreaming of somewhere more exotic and perhaps even sunnier - to be found within these four walls.
But I’m not here on this occasion to imagine my life as an Italian sophisticate, no. I’m here to try out Ad Maiora’s sandwiches which, according to social media at least, are considered to be some of the biggest and the best when it comes to Italian sandwiches in Manchester.
Run by couple Daniela Steri and Enrico Pinn, they've been serving their fine creations for just over two years now. In that short space of time they’ve gone from home-baking start-up to triple-site institution (they also have a spot at the Kargo.MKT food hall in Salford and a soon reopening site in Ancoats).
They’re also loved by Manchester City players like Erling Haaland and Phil Foden. If I'm being completely honest, I have no interest in football, so this doesn’t mean much to me personally, but there’s plenty of pictures of them on the walls of the Northern Quarter deli, which suggests it is a big deal to most other people. Anyway, back to the sandwiches.
They are made with freshly-made schiacciata - a crispy Tuscan-style flatbread. They’re then crammed-to-the-absolute-capacity with locally-sourced and the finest of imported Italian produce, like different cheeses and meats.
Having spoken with Daniela before ordering a sandwich myself, she had told me that the Haaland’s sandwich is, without doubt, their most popular. With it being heralded as one of their finest examples, I felt I had no choice but to order one myself.
It’s priced at £13.90 individually which, yes, many might be shocked about. It might be seen as a little pricey - especially when you consider the low cost of supermarket meal deals. But the likes of the neighbouring Bada Bing and Fat Pat's have shown that there is a market for very-good quality sandwiches using very-good ingredients. If you build it, they will come.
And let me tell you, it's so big that if you want to make it cover you for both lunch and dinner, you will certainly be able to. Watching my server lather the freshly-toasted bread with all kinds of meats, sauces, salads and cheeses, it’s like a never-ending mountain of Italian goodness to the point where I am questioning if it will ever stop. But it does. Sadly.
Inspired by some of the footballer’s favourite things, the Haaland’s sandwich includes Parma ham, burrata, pesto, truffle oil, sun-dried tomatoes, pistachios and rocket. And tucking in, it’s a sweet, salty and rich mixture of flavours.
Of course, the schiacciata is the instant highlight - crunchy yet soft, with undertones of oil and salt kicking about with the tastebuds, it’s some of the finest bread I’ve ever had. Then comes a whoosh of freshness with layers and layers of Parma ham.
The creaminess of the burrata adds a nice lightness and softness to proceedings, serving as a nice companion to the pesto, ham and rocket. The perfectly ripe tomatoes top things off with a nice tangyness and sweetness.
I’ll be honest, I didn’t get much pistachio in the flavour but that’s not to say it wasn’t there. Perhaps there was just so much going on (in the best way possible) that it wasn’t immediately evident. And, yes, I could only manage half of it for my lunch - the rest was had for tea.
As I sit down to eat my sandwich, I get to observe a dog jumping around excitedly inside the barbershop across the road, a woman posing for photos in the nearby alleyway and a van driver beeping excessively at a couple stood in the middle of the street. Picture postcard Italy, this is not, but clearly Manchester has its own sights and sounds to enjoy too - even if they don't quite reach the same heights as the Trevi Fountain or the Piazza del Campo.
I also appreciate the tactfulness of providing a HUMUNGOUS stack of napkins on each table side. It's as if the Ad Maiora team know full well that things are going to get messy. And they're right. Toppings lash out onto the counter with no second's notice and I am constantly provided with the need to wipe my mouth. But I wouldn't have it any other way.
Here in Manchester, we are quite fortunate to have some really good bakeries, cafes and delis serving up some impressive sandwiches. Of course, they come with the added price point, but I am prepared to pay a little extra when you consider how different things taste with premium and authentic ingredients.
I don’t think many of us will be able to afford an Ad Maiora sandwich every day (unless we’re Haaland himself), but as a treat every now and then, I really can’t fault it. And it certainly is a treat.
The added bonus for their new Northern Quarter venue is that you can also buy a number of the meats and cheeses used in some of their sandwiches through their deli counter - so you can even choose to add them to meals at home.
I can’t see how Ad Maiora isn’t going to go down a storm in the city centre with their new shop, and with Daniela and Enrico's clear passion for good food shining through, I can’t think of anyone more deserving of the praise and recognition.
Ad Maiora is on 84 Tib Street, Northern Quarter, M4 1LG.
