Visit the charming German spa town of Baden Baden for a taste of the high life

Sip on Riesling at a local winery or whittle away your time at Brenners Park Hotel & Spa - with its many gastronomic delights

There is a saying about the historic German spa town of Baden Baden - that it’s so good they named it twice.

Overlooked by the enigmatic pines of the Black Forest, or Schwarzwald to locals, I most definitely found the ‘good-good life’ there.

During my two night foodie adventure, I sample local Riesling alongside German master of wine Konstantin Baum, prepare a tasty pumpkin and scallops starter and dine in a French-inspired bistro by the tree-lined river.

To compliment my beautiful surroundings I am hosted by the impressive Brenners Park Hotel & Spa for two nights.

With 103 rooms the hotel sits proudly on the aforementioned Lichtentaler Allee, a pretty boulevard central to the Roman settlement.

However, the flagship Oetker Collection property bagged this spot overlooking the River Oos a while ago with a proud history spanning almost 150 years.

And I enjoy every minute spent exploring this charming spring town in southwestern Germany.

A room with a view

From famous politicians to WAGs and A-list actors, high society has always gravitated towards Brenners.

The renovated set-up includes a series of integrated villas connected to the main grand building as well as a private health and wellbeing centre at Villa Stéphanie Spa & Wellbeing.

Each room is individually decorated and the site is surrounded by swathes of private gardens, guaranteeing privacy and discretion for guests.

The spa is easily located with a fantastic Roman style pool looking out over the river. In summer, the huge glass doors are pulled back to let bathers step out into the sunshine and bask on the lawns.

However, as we visit during a still chilly February we're happy to admire the view from inside and make use of the saunas and steam room instead, a short walk away.

My palatial bedroom in Park Villa comes with a private terrace big enough to host a small gathering and a panoramic view of the gardens and Allee.

As if that wasn’t enough, I find complimentary macaroons.

Gastronomic delights

Baden Baden is a dream for those with a sweet tooth as we find out first hand at the traditional Cafe König, in the town.

This is a prime spot to sample local Black Forest Gateau, surprisingly lighter than many we've tried before, along with an abundance of other cakes, treats and specialty coffees.

I opt for a warming caramel latte and a fresh berry crumble cake.

Back at the elegant Brenners Park Hotel & Spa and the food offering is divine, with three top notch restaurants to choose from.

We start with lunch in the airy Wintergarten with our superb hostess Bärbel I. Göhner - who has worked at the hotel for 30 years.

In between a spicy chicken broth to start and poached salmon with truffle for main we discuss the essence of the hotel.

She tells me with passion: "The soul of the place has never changed, even as we have grown and expanded.

"We have clients that come back every year and many of the staff are long-serving too. This is really stabilising and it feels like a big family.

"I think this atmosphere can be felt when you walk into the hotel and it is something that the Oetker Collection aim for in all their properties."

Later we dine in the earthy but stylish Fritz and Felix Kitchen & Bar - surrounded by pieces of art.

With ample opportunity for sharing, we sat on an elongated high table and served a variety of dishes.

Among my favourite is the beef tartar, seasoned with egg yolk and capers.

Naturalness plays an important role in this menu, with a lot of vegetable-based dishes and sides like sweet potato and polenta.

Our food is paired to perfection by wine consultant Konstantin, including the extremely fresh and lively 2017 Marquis zu Hoensbroech Michelfelder Himmelberg Kabinett Kraichgau.

Wine mountain and modern art

After all that gastronomic indulgence at Brenners why not venture out to experience more of the historic spa town?

Luckily it is a cultural hotspot with many activities and places to visit including The Festspielhaus, one of Germany's largest opera and concert halls and an opulent casino that quite frankly puts James Bond to shame. It's worth a look in for the decor alone.

Or for more daytime activities, take a stroll over the Allee to the Museum Frieder Burda - a modern art gallery only a five minute walk from the hotel.

Here we get a guided tour of the Karin Kneffel display on still life and interiors which was fascinating - especially the giant 'peaches' piece which towers above us.

Finally we take a short car ride to a nearby wine estate, Schloss Neuweier, for a tasting and tour.

It has been owned by the Schatzle family since June 2012 and includes 15 hectres of vineyards on-site.

German wine is becoming more popular on the world stage and you can see, and taste, why. The owner Robert Schätzle has a clear passion for his products and enjoys the history of the estate, which includes a 12th century castle.

Travel facts

To book a stay, or find out more information about the hotel please visit the hotel website.

You can fly from Manchester to Frankfurt directly with Lufthansa three times a day.

The hotel is around 1 hour 45 minute transfer by car from the airport and a private transfer can be arranged with the hotel.

The Lufthansa flights were punctual, spacious and I was well looked after by the staff on the German airline with free drinks and food, despite a short flight time of 1 hour 40 minutes.